THE HIT LIST
Top 10 restaurants outside London
Square Meal has trawled the length and breadth of the land in search of Britain’s 50 top regional restaurants – and here are the top ten:
KEY TO REVIEWS
££££ Above £85
£££ £65-85
££ £45-65
£ Under £45
Prices are based on a two-course dinner (starter and main) for one, including half a bottle of house wine, coffee, cover charge, service and vegetables. The aim is to give an indication of the amount you can expect to pay if you are choosing from the à la carte dinner menu.
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1.
Whatley Manor ££££
Easton Grey, Malmesbury, Wiltshire, SN16 0RB; 01666 822888

Sublime Michelin-starred food at an opulent weekend retreat. ‘No expense spared’ is an understatement when it comes to describing the dramatic renovation of this 1920s hunting lodge – now a favoured weekend chill-out for City execs & food-lovers alike. Formal evening meals are served in The Dining Room (two Michelin stars), where Martin Burge delivers a supreme, all-round gastronomic experience highlighted by a succession of sublime dishes. For something more casual, try Le Mazot – Whatley Manor’s Alpine chalet-style brasserie.
2.
The Fat Duck ££££
1 High Street, Bray, Berkshire, SL6 2AQ; 01628 580333
Thrilling meals produced by a culinary wizard. Since winning his third Michelin star in 2004, Heston Blumenthal has become one of the world’s most celebrated chefs. His brilliant, awe-inspiring and scientifically based cooking has gathered a legion of followers, and you have your work cut out to secure a table at his surprisingly unpretentious restaurant in the village of Bray.
3.
The Waterside Inn ££££
Ferry Road, Bray, Berkshire, SL6 2AT; 01628 620691

National institution from Michel Roux and son Alain. Holding three Michelin stars for almost a quarter of a century is no mean feat, but The Waterside Inn continues with aplomb, maintaining its eminently high standards without airs and graces. Pitch-perfect service, a remarkable wine list and an idyllic Thames-side setting back up the exceptional food.
4.
Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons ££££
Church Road, Great Milton, Oxfordshire, OX44 7PD; 01844 278881
Raymond Blanc’s exquisite haute haunt in Oxfordshire. ‘It can’t be beaten on any level’ declare Square Meal readers about Raymond Blanc’s fine-tuned country-house hotel. From the moment your car tyres crunch over the gravel driveway, everything is deeply impressive – from the meticulously well-kept grounds and beautiful bedrooms in the manor house to Blanc’s near-faultless cooking, and the hefty wine list is an education in the French classics.
5.
The Walnut Tree Inn ££
Llanddewi Skirrid, Abergavenny, Monmouthshire, NP7 8AW; 01873 852797

Welsh stalwart deservedly restored to its former glory. For 35 years The Walnut Tree was one of the most famous restaurants in the UK but, when the original owners sold up, it fell from grace and eventually closed in February 2007. Happily, its demise was short-lived, thanks to gastro-hero Shaun Hill, who has restored it to its former glory. There’s nothing fancy about the new incarnation (undressed tables, unobtrusive art) and the food has an artful simplicity about it.
6.
Le Champignon Sauvage £££
24-28 Suffolk Road, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire, GL50 2AQ; 01242 573449
Bold and brilliant flavours from Cheltenham’s most dedicated chef. The 2006 winner of the BMW Square Meal Award for Best UK Restaurant, Le Champignon Sauvage has been open for some 22 years and has won a strong foodie following – not to mention two Michelin stars – thanks to the innovative cooking of chef/proprietor David Everitt-Matthias, who, to his credit, never misses a service.
7.
The Kitchin ££
78 Commercial Quay, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6LX; 0131 555 1755
Launched in summer 2006 and winning a Michelin star in early 2007, Tom and Michaela Kitchin’s Edinburgh restaurant richly deserves the many plaudits it has received. Michaela runs front of house seamlessly and Tom shakes the pans, demonstrating a strong allegiance to fresh, seasonal ingredients. Dishes may sound simple but Tom’s cooking displays an underlying complexity and real craft. The wine list is far from intimidating with more than half priced at £25 or under.
8.
Restaurant Sat Bains with Rooms £££
Lenton Lane, Nottingham, NG7 2SA; 0115 986 6566
The worthy holder of a Michelin star, Sat Bains’s much-talked-about restaurant offers three tasting menus – of five, seven or 10 courses – each melding classical techniques with contemporary ideas, with oriental influences sneaking through. Sweet-natured service is offered by Sat’s wife, Amanda, and her team.
9.
Restaurant Nathan Outlaw £££
The Marina Villa Hotel, Esplanade, Fowey, Cornwall, PL23 1HY; 01726 833315

A prodigious talent, Nathan Outlaw draws diners from far and wide to his acclaimed eatery, which is set against the stunning backdrop of the Fowey estuary. A short menu plays with classic combinations, but while concepts are simple, dishes are beautifully timed and readers praise ‘consistently great flavours’. Service is polished.
10.
Restaurant Andrew Fairlie ££££
The Gleneagles Hotel, Auchterarder, Perthshire, PH3 1NF; 01764 694267
Occupying a quiet corner of the Gleneagles resort, Andrew Fairlie’s calm, sophisticated restaurant offers a decidedly grown-up dining experience that successfully merges careful service, elegant decor, artful and accomplished cooking and a wine list as long as a school register – put yourself in the hands of the sommelier for the evening