Cuckoo Restaurant
1 Broad Street, Cuckfield, West Sussex, RH17 5LJ
Cuckoo’s reputation in the area precedes it since opening a couple of years ago. Whilst I had heard that the French chef had left for pastures new recently, this had not dulled my expectation or tempered my excitement at eating out with long lost friends here. Largely, I was not disappointed.
Nestled on a side street, it is an unassuming building by day but on arrival in the evening it is subtly lit both inside and outside and exudes a welcoming feel. Up the steps and through the door (with a small faux moose’s head on it) into a small reception area, almost feels like walking into someone’s home. After having my coat escorted upstairs by one of the few English waiters, this feeling continued as we were led through a cosy, candle lit maze of tables into the back of the small restaurant...
Whilst there are the seemingly requisite white table cloths and napkins, the restaurant is decorated in muted grey and white with interesting antique shop looking tea light holders, green quilted cushions that almost look like something your granny would own (but in a good way) and very interesting French themed water glasses. Someone with their own sense of style has designed the room.
On being seated we did have to wait over 15 minutes for our drinks order to be taken and menus to be delivered, which considering the restaurant was quiet when we arrived was puzzling. Once the waiter did arrive he was a perfectly stereotypical French waiter - charming, amusing and camp in equal measure. The Friday night menu had 5 choices of each course with the additional option of olives for £3 as a canapé – unnecessary in my opinion as an overly large complementary plate of focaccia and olive oil was delivered with the drinks. A nice touch but could easily have ruined my appetite if I had eaten anywhere near my share of it. The wine list was a good 2 pages and to keep things simple we ordered one of the house whites, which was reasonable for £15 per bottle.
The menu is definitely modern European with an emphasis on the French. Starters arrived within 15 minutes of ordering and ranged from £5.50 to £9.50. These included Lobster Bisque which was overly salty and peppery, as were the Devilled Whitebait with Homemade Tartar Sauce although delicious all the same. The Newhaven Scallops with Pancetta and Creamy Leeks were the priciest of the starters and were slightly overcooked – the plate was not returned empty. Overall starters were good if over seasoned.
Our main courses arrived after a well timed pause with prices ranging from £11 for the Risotto, to £18 for Venison Casserole with Creamy Mash and Greens which was hearty and filling. Highlights were the Pan-fried Seabass with Confit Red Peppers at £15 and the Pork Chop with Mustard Sauce, Black Pudding and Cider Mash (the black pudding in the mash potato was a triumph) at £14.50. Cuckoo Paella, rich in clams was also a hit with our table. Unlike other places I have visited side orders of vegetables are not needed so prices are fairly reasonable. Whilst all were good the chef does appear to be heavy handed with the seasoning and the addition of salt and pepper pinch pots on the table is totally unnecessary.
Desserts were very good but nothing particularly special. Lime cheesecake with Mango Coulis, Tart Tatin, Chocolate Brownie with Clotted Cream and the untried but unusual sounding Gin and Tonic and Blood Orange Sorbets. More interesting was the teas and coffee that arrived in beautiful antique looking brass tea pots, again perhaps pinched from granny’s house in Provence.
The bill came to £256 plus service for 8 hungry and thirsty people which worked at £32 per head. Chocolate covered cumquats took the place of mints with the bill, a welcome change. There are too many restaurants in the area offering this type of food at hugely inflated prices; this in my opinion is not one of them. The restaurant is intimate, the food very good and the service excellent. The oversized cuckoo clock at the entrance caught my eye on leaving – small touches make places memorable and I will remember to come back...
Buddy
February 2011
The Bill
3 x bottles house Sauvignon Blank £45
1 x Gin and Tonic £5.50
1 x Elderflower Cordial £3
2 x Scallops £19
4 x Lobster Bisque £26
2 x Whitebait £13
1 x Pork £14.50
1 x Paella £16.50
2 x Risotto £22
3 x Seabass £45
1 x Venison £13.50
3 x Puddings £18
6 x Coffee/Tea £15
Total excluding service £256.00