Deciding if a restaurant or “food pub” (as in this case) has got it right is a subtle process. Many things contribute to the decision, such as menu options, food quality, service and, of course, price but it is often the first impressions and that elusive thing, ambience, which is key. By sticking with the traditional concept of a “country inn” The Hawthorn makes the process a little easier and, undoubtedly, ticks all the right boxes in that department.

My guest and I went along the traditional approach in selecting our meals, aided by a predominantly “classic” style menu containing many items long abandoned by more fashion-conscious chefs. No criticism is implied here and there is much to be applauded in favouring Delia over Masterchef, as the full house on the evening we visited demonstrated. The other advantage of such an approach is that the extensive menu means that there is “something for everyone” – essential with family oriented dining.

Concepts, however, count for nothing if the food does not live up to expectations. Fortunately, it did not disappoint. We both started with a deep fried camembert and red onion marmalade which, although quite acceptable, should have been warmed so as to become more liquid before being fried which would have made it much more flavourful. Personally, I would have liked a sharper contrast as the accompaniment, be it either sweet or savoury, as well.

If the starter was not everything we might have wanted, the main course of “surf and turf” (fillet steak and tiger prawns on a rosti base) certainly made up for it. The two key factors in getting steak right are the quality of the meat and the cooking time. Both were superb and the tiger prawns were also beautifully cooked and presented making the whole dish a triumph. A great rosti and lovely, real (not frozen) chips completed the picture and left both of us replete with the generosity of the portion sizes.

The down side of such largesse was, of course, that neither of us had room left for a pudding! This was a great shame because I am big pudding man and would have liked to have put their pastry skills to the test. I am confident, however, that they would have been equal to it.

I feel I should say something about service. I have often found it the case that “food pubs”, whilst competing very favourably with restaurants in many aspects of food, pricing and ambience (provided you don’t mind a bit of noise while dining), sometimes miss the mark on service. Clearly, one does not expect highly attentive service at pub but it is important that food arrives hot (or cold if necessary) and that there is good liaison between bar staff, kitchen and waiting staff. This not always the case with such establishments but The Hawthorn makes no such mistakes. They have opted for full-blown, restaurant-style service at tables, rather than ordering at the bar, and they do an excellent job of it with a relatively small number of waiting staff.

So, what of the final analysis. There is no doubt that if you like your food traditional, of good quality, decent portion size and delivered with a smile, this is just the place for you. Be warned, however, that this is not the cheapest pub food you will eat in the Isle of Man but it would churlish indeed to make comparisons between The Hawthorn and some other Island hostelries. The difference in price is well worth it. Looking at the turnout on the evening we ate, many others are clearly of the same opinion and that means booking is probably advisable on most nights. Don’t let that put you off though!

2 * Deep fried Camembert with red onion marmalade        £12.50

2 * “Surf & Turf” – Fillet steak and tiger prawns with rosti and chips - £51.20

3 * glass house wine        £11.85

2 * Coffee           £3.60